As the end of my trip approaches, I decide to go to Armenia for three days and take the night train from Tbilisi to Yerevan. The train is rather old and probably dates back to the days of the Soviet Union in the 1960ies. The female conductor, who is perhaps in her early sixties and rather imperious with the passengers, reminds me of avRussian matron. I share my first class compartment with an animated Spanish guy, who to my amazement turns out to be fluent in Russian, Arabic, English, French and Spanish. We spend the following days together, exploring Yerevan and going on a road trip to two famous monasteries and to Lake Sevan.
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In July 2013 I travel to the Caucasus region for the first time. I have…